[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] 1927 Rolex Oyster Introduction Advertorial

Hans Wilsdorf had a brilliant marketing mind, and he successfully capitalized on the public relations exposure generated by Mercedes Gleitze's vindication swim. Hans Wilsdorf finally found his real Mermaid to showcase his Oyster.

The following Rolex advertorial ran on the cover of the London Daily Mail Newspaper on November 24, 1927, and it showcased the Rolex Oyster along with Mercedes Gleitze.

1927 Rolex Oyster Introduction Brochure

The next two photos are from a Rolex Oyster brochure, and the first image depicts Hans Wilsdorf observing the Rolex advertorial (pictured above) which he placed in the London Daily Mail on November 24th, 1927.

This next illustration depicts Mercedes Gleitze as she emerges from the English channel.

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Evolution Of The Revolution

So what makes a Rolex Oyster an Oyster? The winding crown acts like a screw-on cap, or micro jar-lid, and has watertight gaskets in it. The best way to think of it is to imagine a submarine hatch that is threaded and has to be twisted or spun open or closed.

 

In 1926, at age 45, Hans Wilsdorf had successfully designed, manufactured and patented the waterproof Rolex Oyster. The challenge he faced was, how to communicate the value-proposition of such a product?

Hans came up with the idea of associating the fantasy of mermaids with the waterproof Rolex Oyster as seen in the 1926 French Rolex advertisement seen below.

1926 French Rolex Mermaid Oyster Poster

At the same time, as seen in the Rolex illustration below, Hans Wilsdorf came up with a brilliant idea to have authorized Rolex dealers display the waterproof Rolex Oysters watches, in fish-tanks, in their windows–with real fish swimming around the watch!!! This of course gained the fascination of many passer-bys.

In 1927, Hans Wilsdorf learned about a swimmer named Mercedes Gleitze, who claimed to have been the first woman to swim all the way across the English channel. He also read about how another woman claimed to achieve the same feat soon after, in even less time. The second woman, soon afterward, admitted she lied.

As a result, people pointed the finger at Mercedes Gleitze and accused her of lying as well. Mercedes was enraged by the accusation, and declared, that she would "vindicate" herself, but swimming it a second time.

Upon learning of this upcoming event, Hans Wilsdorf contacted Mercedes Gleitze and offered to hire her as the first Rolex ambassador to endorse the brand, by wearing a Rolex Oyster (strangely, on a necklace) on her vindication swim across the English Channel.

The photo below was taken on the beach in France, as Mercedes dove into the water to begin her "vindication" swim.

The challenge with Mercedes Gleitze's "vindication" swim was that after 10 hours, she only made it about 4/5 of the way across the channel and had to be pulled-out, since she almost froze to death. The vindication swim was not a complete success, but the Rolex Oyster, strapped around her neck, came out of the water in perfect working order.

The photo below is of Mercedes Gleitze's actual Rolex Oyster which she wore around her neck, during her vindication swim.

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] Rolex Chronograph (Reference 6234)

Rolex also introduced the grandfather of the Daytona in 1955, known as the Rolex Chronograph [Reference 6234]. The Reference 6234 would be made from 1955 to 1961, and Rolex averaged approximately 500 units per year.

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Perpetual Oyster & The Mermaid

In a span of 5 years from 1926 to 1931, Rolex and Hans Wilsdorf would create and patent two major horology milestones, which would forever set Rolex apart; the Rolex Oyster waterproof watch-case, and the Rolex Perpetual Movement. In 1925, Rolex would also create and register their famous trademark logo of the Rolex five-point logo crown.

The Art-Deco era was a time of tremendous growth for Rolex, so much so, there are many art-deco elements which remain today as part of their current design language.

The Rolex Oyster is perhaps the most revolutionary and profound development in watch history. The following patent application was filed by Hans Wilsdorf on behalf of Rolex in 1926:

 How Does A Rolex Oyster Case Work?

The next photo perfectly illustrates how the original Rolex Oyster case was designed, constructed and assembled. Notice the fluted bezel, just like with the one on the previously examined hermetic case, screws down onto the inner-case as does the case-back. The actual Oyster case itself, was milled from a solid piece of gold, as all Rolex Oyster watch cases are to this day.

Was it the first professional dive watch in history? In many ways yes and in many way no, as we will soon see. More than anything it was a watch you could take swimming without damaging.

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Secret Of Success

"On looking back into the past, I find that, in developing and extending my business, I have always had certain aims in mind, of course from which I never deviated. Perhaps these aims can be summarized as follows:

1.) To create watch designs suitable for both men and women.

2.) To standardize a range of movements of different sizes.

3.) To obtain so high a degree of quality, that our watches, whatever the caliber, should be recognized as “ chronometers” by the Observatories.

4.) To give current models the benefit of the results and improvements obtained with specially constructed high precision specimens.

5.) To maintain this high degree of precision by protecting the movements against the penetration of dust and impurities, the danger to which the wrist watch is particularly exposed.

This last point presented a problem which could only be resolved by protecting the movement against all outside influences. To my technical assistants, my constant refrain was, from the earliest days: “We must succeed in making a watch case so tight that our movements will be permanently guaranteed against damage caused by dust, perspiration, water, heat and cold. Only then will the perfect accuracy of the Rolex watch be secured."

This seemingly insoluble problem has been solved. After years of untiring research, and at the cost of innumerable difficulties, the waterproof case was finally created in 1926. This invention was applied exclusively to the Rolex watch, was also the first realization of the permanently waterproof watch–and still is.

The fact that, like an oyster, it can remain an unlimited time under water without detriment to its parts, gave me the idea of christening it the “Rolex-Oyster", the name under which it has become famous throughout the world.

It was on October 7, 1927, that the "Rolex-Oyster” underwent the ordeal which was to justify its name. On that day, Mercedes Gleitze, a young London stenographer, swam the Channel in 15 hours 15 minutes, and with her went a faithful companion, the Rolex–Oyster. Imagine the surprise of the reporters present at her landing, when they found that the watch was still running as perfectly as if it had never left dry land.

The event caused a sensation at the time, for the waterproof watch was still unknown to the general public. On November 27, 1927, I reserved the front page of the “Daily Mail” (at a cost of 1600 British Pounds) for an advertisement proclaiming the success of the first waterproof watch. This was the first step in the triumphant rise to fame of the “Rolex-Oyster".

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Hermetically-Sealed Case

The next Rolex pictured below is called a Hermetic watch and it was made in 1924. This new style of watch completely protected the entire movement, and notice that when it is sealed the watch winding crown is hidden inside the watch.

Think of a Hermetically sealed watch as being like a jar lid (with a round glass window) screwed on a jar. Once the lid is screwed into place, it forms an impervious barrier. No liquid can get in or out of the jar when the lid is securely screwed into place. (This of course is if you do not submerge the watch in deep water. At some point, without a gasket the case would fail and let water in).

This design was revolutionary at the time because it consited of two pieces. Basically you would spin the threaded cap off the front of the watch (think jar lid). The challenge was, in order to change the time or wind the watch–every day–you had to spin-off the top, every time, and then, spin it back on afterward. Even though it worked, this design was short lived because it was a bit like having the on-off switch for the windshield wipers in the glove compartment of your car.

Notice also the face of the cap has a machined or fluted edge to make it easy to grip. Another challenge, was, that over time, the fluted bezel would wear down so if you used it for a long time, eventually you would no longer be able to grip the face to twist it off.

This machined edge or fluted bezel is the genesis for the fluted bezels on modern Rolex watches, including the Day-Date, Datejust and even on the sport Rolex professional models like the Submariner and GMT Master.

Note the wire lugs are soldered to the case, so the only way to replace the leather strap was to cut off the old one and sew on the new one. I think people got lazy with the sewing the strap in place deal and as you can see in the image below, they simply sewed across the strap horizontally, as you can see at the bottom of the strap.

Hermetically sealed watches had a really interesting look since the winding crown was hidden in the case. Also notice in the photo of the hermetically sealed Rolex above that the fluting is not worn down. That is because this watch is steel, which is much harder than gold (like the two watches pictured above this one).

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

SWATCH New Gent Reptile Collection

Adding an exciting twist to its Gent silhouette, SWATCH unveils these new designs for the season. The watches feature striking reptile prints seen on the aluminum case and straps, while colors on the hands and markers connect with the overall theme.

Vivacious and stylish, these watches are available for approximately $88 USD.

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] The Snap-Back Case

This first image is a snap-back Rebberg Rolex watch from 1914. Essentially it is a pocket watch on a leather strap.

If you look closely at the image above, you notice the watch has a hinge on the left side of the case. If you flip the watch around onto its face (as seen below) you notice if you open the rear door it exposes the movement. (Note: the snap-back door on the photo below is not in sharp focus, but it is on the left edge of the photo sitting upright, perpendicular to the case). The challenge is, there is no seal or gasket to stop dust, perspiration, water or humidity from entering the case.

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] Snap-Front Hunting Case

Pictured below is another Rolex wristwatch from 1915, this time with a snap front Hunting Case and if you look closely you notice it is simply a pocket-watch with lugs soldered onto the case, along with a leather piece sewn onto the wired lugs–very primitive and fragile by todays standards.

The reason it had the snap front case-cover was to help protect the glass crystal from getting cracked when a gentleman went hunting.

It is important to note, prior to World War I, wrist watches for men did not exist. Ladies wore watches on straps around their wrist, but men wore their pocket watches on a chain, and they kept their pocket watches in their vest pocket of their suit.

During the early twentieth century, when a man was asked what he thought about wearing a watch on his wrist (known at the time as a wristlet) one man remarked he wouldn't be caught doing such an unrefined thing. He said you would be as likely to catch him in a dress as you would wearing a "wristlet."

When you examine these first generation wristwatches, with the skinny strap, you can kind of understand why men would have thought they were feminine at the time.

When men went to fight in World War I, having a timing tool on their person, to synchronize events, became invaluable. The challenge was if you were a soldier living and fighting in a trench, and you had to keep your pocket watch in your vest, and it was freezing cold in the trench, in order to time events, you would have to take-off your gloves, unbutton your trench-coat, unbutton your coat and reach in your pocket, while holding your rifle in the other hand. This process was clumsy, laborious and time-consuming.

Rare photo of a British soldier wearing a wristwatch in 1917 During World War I

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

[Behind the Brand - ROLEX] Hans Wilsdorf - Founder of ROLEX

Hans Wilsdorf

1881-1960

Timeline of Innovation & Achievement

• 1881 - Birth of Hans Wilhelm Wilsdorf was born on March 22, in Kulmach, Bavaria (which is now part of Germany) to Ferdinand and Anna Wilsdorf.

• 1905 - Hans Wilsdorf founds his first watch company with his older brother in law and names it Wilsdorf & Davis Ltd.

• 1908 - Hans Wilsdorf registers Rolex trademark name. He seeks to create a new name that is simple to remember and pronounce as well as a name that cannot be misspelled. Instead of using an existing name he makes up a name from scratch, much like Eastman did when he created the Kodak brand in 1888. Hans Wilsdorf said "With Rolex I sought to create a name that would be easy to pronounce in all European languages and could easily and elegantly grace the dial of a watch."

• 1910 - Hans Wilsdorf sends his first movement to the School of Horology in Switzerland and was awarded the world's first wrist watch Chronometer rating.

• 1912 - Hans Wilsdorf opens Wilsdorf & Davis offices in Bienne, Switzerland to facilitate movement business with Mr. Aegler.

• 1914 - The Kew Observatory in Great Britain awarded to 25mm Rolex wristwatch the first Class "A" Precision Certificate known as a Kew-A.

• 1915 - The Rolex Watch Company Ltd. is established. (Historical Note: Despite having registered the Rolex Trademark in 1908, Hans Wilsdorf did not change the company name from Wilsdorf & Davis Ltd., to the Rolex Watch Co. Ltd. until 1915. Hans Wilsdorf apparently changed the name since World War I the use of a German brand name in England became too difficult.)

• 1919 - Rolex sets up Geneva offices.

• 1920 - Montres Rolex S.A. established in Bienne, Switzerland.

• 1925 - Rolex Introduces and trademarks their now iconic Rolex logo of a 5-point crown.

• 1926 - Rolex develops and patented the Rolex Oyster; as the first air, dust and waterproof watch.

• 1927 - Mercedes Gleitze is first woman to swim the English Channel. She re-attempts to swim the English Channel a second time while wearing Rolex "Water Proof" Oyster. Hans Wilsdorf makes her the first celebrity to endorse Rolex.

• 1928 - Rolex introduced the extremely popular and stylish art-deco Rolex Prince curvex watch.

• 1931 - Rolex introduced the revolutionary Perpetual Movement; self-winding mechanism that can be found in every automatic watch.

• 1933 - Malcolm Campbell becomes first male ROLEX Ambassador.

• 1944 - Hans Wilsdorf's wife passes away, and Hans Wilsdorf establishes the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation to which he left all of his shares in Rolex.

• 1945 - Rolex DateJust (First wristwatch with the date in a magnifying window; also the introduction of the Jubilee bracelet to celebrate Rolex's 40th Anniversary also known as the Ruby Jubilee).

• 1946 The Tudor subsidiary is established.

• 1947 - Chuck Yeager is the first man to break the sound barrier while wearing his Rolex Oyster Perpetual he purchased himself.

• 1948 - Cyclops Magnifier Lens feature for easy viewing of the date developed for DateJust.

• 1953 - Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay conquer Mount Everest wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, May 29th at 11:30am.

• 1953 - Jacques-Yves Cousteau films the documentary The Silent World in the Mediterranean wearing a Rolex Submariner prototype.

• 1953 - Rolex introduces Explorer wristwatch. Also the Turn-O-Graph was introduced as the first wristwatch with a rotating bezel.

• 1954 - Rolex formally introduces Submariner diving watch at Basel Fair Watch Trade Show in Switzerland.

• 1954 - Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Date created.

• 1954 - Rolex introduced the Milgauss Anti-magnetic watch for Scientists.

• 1955 - Royal Navy divers issued officially with Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches.

• 1955 - Rolex introduces the GMT Master is developed for Pan American International Airlines to make it possible for pilots to easily track two time zones

• 1956 - Rolex introduces first "anti-magnetic" watch in history [Reference 6543].

• 1956 - Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date model introduced at Basel Fair first wristwatch with a day wheel complication.

• 1960 - Rolex DEEP-SEA Special prototype wristwatch is attached to the outside of the U.S. Navy Bathyschaphe Trieste submersible which descends to an all-time record depth of 35,787 feet down into the Mariana Trench in the Challenger Deep, off of Guam in the Pacific Ocean and the watch surfaced in perfect working order. The Bathyschaphe was piloted by Donald Walsh & Jacques Piccard.

source:rolexblog.blogspot.com

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »

New Watch For a New Life Style | GQ Japan October 2011

New Watch For a New Life Style

Photographer: Miko Lim

Twitter ● Facebook ● Bloglovin'

Read more »